Our flight into Amsterdam provided breathtaking views of neat lime green dykeland farms reminding me of the Annapolis Valley farms of Nova Scotia. However, there were so many more of them and they had no North and South Mountains for protection against the wind.
It made me think of my neighbours who immigrated from the Netherlands and now farm our dykelands. Even with hectares under production, their New World farms must have seemed small to them at first, compared to those spreading in regular patterns below our aircraft.
The next afternoon, our ship left Amsterdam bound for Budapest. We had seen canals with sluce gates (aboiteau to me) and now acres of flat farmlands with the occasional herd of sheep or cattle provided familiar scenery.
Brochures and positive reviews from past River Cruisers promised an unforgettable experience. Our itinerary listed the Netherlands, Germany, Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary. It seemed clear that we had seen the end of any relevant Acadian, or even Nova Scotia history.
Spectacular scenery revealed itself to us on a regular basis right from the start. 
There were mountainous gorges with towering castle ruins reminding us of the power of the nobles over the inhabitants of riverside villages lining the narrow waterways our ship navigated. Terraced vinyards wound like ribbons on the mountainsides and amazingly produced some of the world’s finest wines.
Our visits to picturesque villages with half-timbered buildings and opulent Bishop’s Residences spoke of the disparity between the working classes versus the rich and powerful.
Occasionally, there were hints of a powerful monarchy with references to their summer palaces and occasional residences but it wasn’t until we visited the 900-year-old Benedictine Abbey in Melk, Austria that I made the Acadian connection. It wasn’t the ornate gold leaf walls, fresco ceilings, library lined with ancient texts or the baroque architecture that did it though!
It was the focus on Queen Maria Thérèsa of Austria, the object of the War of the Austrian Succession.
From then on, I learned more about this amazing woman who came to power at a time when women in charge were unknown, or at least undesired.
Like Victoria and Elizabeth, who Canadian schoolchildren and PBS watchers know, a young un-prepared woman who inherits an empire has a lot of enemies. In Maria-Thérèsa’s case it was the neighbouring leaders who forgot their promises to her father honoring the agreement they had made to accept her reign upon his death.
That’s what the War of the Austrian Succession was all about.
By now, you may be wondering what all of that has to do with Acadie. Last year I attended a workshop with a Parks Canada historian. The subject of the founding of Halifax was discussed and that’s when the historical context of the War of the Austrian Succession came up.
The dates are 1740-1748.
Now, that’s a timeline I’m familiar with…a time of relative peace in Acadie but with ominous signs on the horizon.
Although the War of the Austrian Succession mainly involved Europe, the old conflicts spilled over to North America. England was interested in supporting Maria-Thérèsa’s Austria as a counter balance against France.
France was looking west. The historian reminded us of the ill-fated Duc d’Anville expedition of June-October 1746 which had been launched by France to re-take Louisbourg, Fort Anne and even Boston.
11,000 men and 64 ships might have been successful had it not been for calm winds, lightning, scurvy and typhus.
The English got the message. The next year New England troops came up the coast and fought the Battle of Grand-Pré against French troops, native warriors and a small number of Acadian recruits…and lost!
All of this left the majority Acadian civilian population, living in Nova Scotia, nervous especially when the victorious French troops withdrew from Acadian territory. One report tells of Acadians being alarmed, disappointed and feeling abandoned to British retribution. History would prove this correct.
In 1749, seasoned soldier Edward Cornwallis founded Halifax; no more Mr. Nice Guys who sought compromises. His mission was to establish a new fortress city at the well-known Chebucto harbour. This would show King George’s domination over the territory.
Many historians have described the deterioration of relations between the British’s new hard-line administration and the Acadians…we all know how it ends…. deportations beginning in 1755.
So what happened to Maria Thérèsa? Though history books can get bogged down with battles, power plays and the role of smallpox in determining who survives. I have found that Maria Thérèsa grows into the job. She has many children with her beloved husband, reforms the Hapsburg Empire and has the incredible energy of dynamic leaders. Under her leadership: education, labour rules, the economy, finances and health policy are improved.
On the personal side, she liked to party, especially when she was younger. She took designated time for her children and oversaw their upbringing.
We learned that after a 1741 visit to Melk Abbey she famously said that she would regret if she had not been here. It was one of her favourite places, no wonder, we were glad to be there too.
In a way, we followed her…or she followed us… from Melk… as our journey continued. Her palaces and residences are landmarks all over Austria in particular.
Her era was the same as the Acadian ancestors I have been researching. Born in 1717 she was just 9 years younger than my seven times great grandmother Catherine Bro. Both women lived into their 60’s.
Maria-Thérèsa was the mother of 16 children, Catherine had 8 and while one is known as the Mother-in-Law of Europe, due to her ability to arrange advantageous marriages for her surviving children (smallpox again), the other has a more modest list of descendants.
On the other hand, one of Maria Thérèsa’s more famous daughters was Marie Antoinette. You know her, wife of King Louis sixteenth of France who met with an unfortunate end.
In all my historical research, I have not found any of my ancestors who died from the guillotine so while being part of the social class who lived in small villages in the shadow of a fortress had many challenges there were some advantages!
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